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T-34 76 M1940 Model 1940 (T-34/76A) with front headlight (small scales version)
€1.70
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Hello,
Delivered in 1/280 scale (6mm), the model can be adapted to a wide variety of scales using your slicer. For example:
Provided scale: 6mm (1/280)
to 4mm (1/400) x70%
to 8mm (1/200) x140%
to 10mm (1/160) x175%
to 12mm (1/144) x195%
Looking for assistance? Try our automated calculator, featuring numerous scales and games:
Automated Scale & Game Calculator
Easily convert dimensions for a wide range of tabletop games.
The model is provided as a single solid piece.
Personal use only: commercial use or file sharing is strictly prohibited, thank you for your understanding. Pure 3D Mesh: Genuine human-made STL files, zero AI was used to create these 3D models.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out !
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HM-M1-V54
Data sheet
- File original scale (can be easily modify)
- 1/280
- Number of parts
- Theme
- Second World War
- Type
- Vehicle
- FDM-friendly ? (filament printing)
- Yes
- Faction
- Russia
- With pre-supported version
- Yes
- Style
- Realistic
- Subtype
- Tank
- Playable interior
- Not applicable
Specific References
For my small-scale vehicle range, I highly recommend printing in resin whenever possible to achieve the crispest level of detail (I provide pre-supported files for this exact purpose). However, they are also fully printable in FDM. Here are my personal tips to help guide you:
* Layer Height & Nozzle: I strongly advise dropping below 0.2mm. Layer heights of 0.08mm or 0.12mm are great alternatives to preserve fine details. You should also consider using a nozzle smaller than the standard 0.4mm (such as 0.25mm)—on scales this small, it dramatically improves the final print quality.
* Wall Perimeters: 2 to 3 perimeters are plenty. At 6mm scale, this is usually enough to make thin, fragile elements (like gun barrels and tracks) virtually solid and durable for tabletop gaming.
* Infill: While infill plays a smaller role on such compact models, I recommend sticking to 10–15%.
* Bed Adhesion: Because the footprint on the build plate is extremely small, I recommend using a brim to ensure proper adhesion and prevent parts from detaching mid-print.
* Supports: Stick strictly to Organic / Tree Supports. The geometry requires support, but standard grid supports will fuse to the model. Pro tip: slightly increase the Z contact distance so you can snap the supports off cleanly without snapping delicate gun barrels.
* Minimum Layer Time (Critical Parameter): Set your minimum layer time to 15–20 seconds. On fast modern printers, the nozzle loops through a tiny layer so quickly that the plastic doesn't have time to cool, melting the details. I recommend either dialing in a minimum layer cooling time in your slicer (so the print head pauses or slows down) or printing multiple vehicles at once to give each layer time to set properly.
Note: Default slicer profiles (OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, etc.) are tuned for larger scales (28mm or terrain). For smaller scale (6mm, 8mm, ...), controlled cooling and finetuned settings are your best allies!*