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SU-85 tank destroyer (small scales version)
€1.70
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Hello,
The model is provided in 1/280 scale (6mm), but can be easily resized in many other scales in your slicer. For example:
Provided scale: 6mm (1/280)
to 4mm (1/400) x70%
to 8mm (1/200) x140%
to 10mm (1/160) x175%
to 12mm (1/144) x195%
Looking for assistance? Try our automated calculator, featuring numerous scales and games:
Automated Scale & Game Calculator
Easily convert dimensions for a wide range of tabletop games.
This model comes as one unified piece.
Please note that the files are for private use only and cannot be shared or used commercially. Pure 3D Mesh: Genuine human-made STL files, zero AI was used to create these 3D models.
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out !
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HM-M1-V59
Data sheet
- File original scale (can be easily modify)
- 1/280
- Number of parts
- Theme
- Second World War
- Type
- Vehicle
- FDM-friendly ? (filament printing)
- Yes
- Faction
- Russia
- With pre-supported version
- Yes
- Style
- Realistic
- Subtype
- Tank hunter
- Playable interior
- Not applicable
Specific References
For my small-scale vehicle range, I highly recommend printing in resin whenever possible to achieve the crispest level of detail (I provide pre-supported files for this exact purpose). However, they are also fully printable in FDM. Here are my personal tips to help guide you:
* Layer Height & Nozzle: I strongly advise dropping below 0.2mm. Layer heights of 0.08mm or 0.12mm are great alternatives to preserve fine details. You should also consider using a nozzle smaller than the standard 0.4mm (such as 0.25mm)—on scales this small, it dramatically improves the final print quality.
* Wall Perimeters: 2 to 3 perimeters are plenty. At 6mm scale, this is usually enough to make thin, fragile elements (like gun barrels and tracks) virtually solid and durable for tabletop gaming.
* Infill: While infill plays a smaller role on such compact models, I recommend sticking to 10–15%.
* Bed Adhesion: Because the footprint on the build plate is extremely small, I recommend using a brim to ensure proper adhesion and prevent parts from detaching mid-print.
* Supports: Stick strictly to Organic / Tree Supports. The geometry requires support, but standard grid supports will fuse to the model. Pro tip: slightly increase the Z contact distance so you can snap the supports off cleanly without snapping delicate gun barrels.
* Minimum Layer Time (Critical Parameter): Set your minimum layer time to 15–20 seconds. On fast modern printers, the nozzle loops through a tiny layer so quickly that the plastic doesn't have time to cool, melting the details. I recommend either dialing in a minimum layer cooling time in your slicer (so the print head pauses or slows down) or printing multiple vehicles at once to give each layer time to set properly.
Note: Default slicer profiles (OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, etc.) are tuned for larger scales (28mm or terrain). For smaller scale (6mm, 8mm, ...), controlled cooling and finetuned settings are your best allies!*